Christianbury Crag
Last updated 16:14, Sunday, 14 September 2008
Just yards from the Northumberland border is Christianbury Crag, which has one of the best viewpoints in Cumbria.
MAP: OS Explorer map OL324, Liddesdale and Kershope Forest
START: Cuddy’s Hall picnic area in Kershope Forest (GR NY520808)
PUBLIC TRANSPORT: None
REFRESHMENTS: Nothing for several miles
DISTANCE: 12 miles
TOTAL ASCENT: 2,112ft
TIME: 5.5-6.5 hours
OVERVIEW: If anyone asked me for a list of the best viewpoints in Cumbria, having gone through all the usual suspects, I would have to add Christianbury Crag (1,597ft).
Hidden away in the forgotten forests in the far, far north-east corner of the county, just yards from the Northumberland border and a few miles from Scotland, this weathered outcrop of sandstone is a long way from anywhere and yet you can see a huge expanse of north Cumbria from it – as well as bits of our aforementioned neighbours.
The route up through Kershope Forest is straightforward, keeping to clear forest tracks for much of the way and climbing gently.
The return route is another matter entirely. This heads deeper into the dark conifer plantations and is on rough ground. It also involves one river crossing. Anyone looking for an easy, albeit fairly long day out, should return via the outward route.
THE WALK: From the picnic area, cross the concrete bridge and head up the gated track (signpost reads: “Public Footpath Christianbury”). Although you are on the edge of a huge area of conifer plantations, the route feels surprisingly open; there is none of the claustrophobia often associated with the dark, sprawling border forests... yet.
Having walked for almost two-thirds of a mile, you reach a clear crossing of tracks where you turn right. After a few twists and turns, you climb a loose, stony area to join a wider track coming in from the right.
As you crest the top of a rise near the next junction of tracks, you get your first sighting of Christianbury Crag to the east. Turn right at this junction, followed soon by a turn to the left.
The track now winds its way down to a junction just above Blacklyne House (2.0 miles from the start). Turn right to pass above the abandoned farmstead.
After crossing the bridge over the Black Lyne, take the next track turning on the right.
Climbing steadily all the while, you pass and ignore one track off to the right. Then, about 1.25 miles beyond Blacklyne House – as you approach the eastern edge of a large, unplanted area – say goodbye to the security of the clear forest tracks and turn right at a waymarker post. A narrow, damp path heads SSE through the heather. Cross a ditch at the other side of this open area and then turn left to follow another faint path alongside the fence on your right.
You soon pass a wooden stile. Ignore it for now, but this is the key to the return route later in the walk.
The often soggy path eventually breaks free of the forest to reach Christianbury Crag on the open, heathery moorland (4.75 miles from the start). All you can see to the east and the north of this amazing viewpoint are lonely moors and huge expanses of forest. There is no sign of human habitation. Turn around and the views include the North Pennines, the Lake District fells, the Solway Firth and the Scottish hills.
From the crag, retrace your steps to the wooden stile in the fence. Anyone unsure about the river crossing later on should now return to the car park via the outward route, but the more adventurous can cross the stile and follow the fence downhill for a few more strides before swinging left into the clear fire break between the trees. The path keeps to the right-hand side of the break and heads SSW at first, following the line of Ellery Grain for the next three-quarters of a mile.
At the first rough track you come to, cross straight over. The path isn’t easy to spot and there appears to be a break in the trees off to the left, but you want the more obvious fire break on the right, still following Ellery Grain (SSE). Cross straight over the next track too.
The ground underfoot is increasingly rough and there are one or two steep, awkward embankments to negotiate before you reach the White Lyne. Carefully ford the burn and then turn right along the riverside path. You soon cross a gully and then the path heads into the trees. The route now becomes extremely complicated as it twists and turns through the dark forest, but all the while there are yellow waymarkers to guide you. These are nailed to the trees every few yards and, even though you are still following the route of the White Lyne, they are a reassuring aid to navigation. You need to watch carefully for them.
Alternating between paths along the grassy embankment and forest trails for almost a mile, the route finally leaves the White Lyne after fording a tributary close to a sharp right-hand bend in the main channel. As indicated by the waymarkers, you now walk uphill alongside a tumbledown wall for a few yards before swinging left up into the trees.
When you reach a fence, swing left and then turn right to walk with the fence on your right. Keep following the twisting, turning boundary until you come to the edge of the forest (7.85 miles from the start). Cross the stile in the fence and turn right along the wide track. Turn left along the quiet lane and then take the next gated turning on your right.
The track passes Sandcrook Cottage, crosses the White Lyne and then climbs to Crosshill. Entering the yard, you pass between the two buildings and go through an old wooden gate. A faint, grassy track heads SW. Follow this – with a fence on your right at first. When the fence disappears, you walk to the left of a low mound until you reach a large wooden fencepost near some power lines. Swing right here along a clearer, grassy track (NW).
The track finally emerges on a bend in a narrow lane (9.1 miles from the start). Turn right. The lane soon fords the Black Lyne and passes a few isolated dwellings before reaching a junction with a minor road (10.1 miles from the start). Turn right and the parking area is almost two miles along this road.
POINTS OF INTEREST: With a variety of habitats and tree types, Kershope Forest is home to a range of birds, according to a survey carried out by Cumbria Bird Club a few years ago. Raptors include buzzards, goshawks, merlins, sparrowhawks and tawny and barn owls. The rare hen harrier breeds on the moors nearby.
Other birds that can be seen in the area include siskins, crossbills, cuckoos, whinchats, willow warblers, tree pipits, redstarts, great spotted woodpeckers, chiffchaffs, curlews, stonechats, grey herons, mallards and goosanders. Some of the open areas are also thought to be used by the elusive nightjar.
