I’m fed up with the winter so let’s take an early look at a grape that’s just perfect for the spring, Sauvignon Blanc. It’s the classic grape of Sancerre in France where it makes dry and often pungent white wines with deep flavours, but in recent years its spiritual home may have shifted to the New World.

Quite what the Kiwis did with the grape I don’t know but they turned a pungent classic into a tropical fruit-driven goddess of a wine with aromas bursting out of the bottle. I love Sauvignon Blanc, so you can imagine my delight nearly a quarter of a century ago when I discovered a new vineyard in Marlborough, New Zealand, producing a stellar example that was called Whitehaven! It could only have been more perfect if the neighbouring vineyard was called Workington.

Sauvignon blanc is one of those chameleon wines in that it’s the perfect aperitif wine before a big Christmas lunch but it’s also a cracking partner to shellfish at any time of the year yet no hot summer’s day or barbecue is complete without this crisp, refreshing white.

Now I know you’re going to be sceptical of this next bit and some of you will think ah, it’s just him, he’s a wine snob, but I’m telling you this for your own good: trade up when it comes to Sauvignon Blanc. There’s plenty on the market for around a fiver but as I don’t drive a Lada, wear tank tops or cling to the belief that U2’s last album was a classic, I don’t drink rubbish either. Ccheap sauvignon is like alcoholic water with a faint smell of urine so aim high – and the really great news is that there’s plenty to aim at. For the classic and sometimes austere style, aim for Sancerre and Pouilly Fume; for tropical fruits go down under; and for something in between and a bit lemony as well, try the Fume Blancs of California.

The world is your oyster if classy Sauvignon is your game but there’s another rule to follow with this grape. As well as trading up, make sure you chill it down because, unlike Chardonnay which just sort of fattens up at room temperature, Sauvignon resembles a grumpy old man with warm gooseberry breath at any temperature higher than a polar bear’s butt.

I mentioned the shellfish and barbecues earlier, but I forgot to say that one of it’s best partnerships is with a summer salad with grilled chicken or smoked salmon – and yes, I know it’s still nippy outside but admit it, just for one second, it really did feel like summer didn’t it!

Gerard’s picks

  • Whitehaven Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough: Seriously one of life’s delights. Apples and gooseberries on the nose with masses of crisp tropical fruits on the palate and a finish that’s more refreshing than an honest politician. Richardsons of Whitehaven, £14.99.
  • Greywacke Sauvignon, Marlborough: Pink grapefruits and melons on the nose with lemon and passion fruits on the palate. Really quite delightful. Shill’s of Cockermouth, £18.