“While we are familiar with the adverse effect of drink on an empty stomach, we are now witnessing the far worse effect of drink on an empty mind” – philosopher Sir Roger Scruton.

Riesling is perhaps the most famous, unappreciated, abused and generally misunderstood wine of all time and it’s probably also the one most of us cut our alcoholic teeth on many years ago.

If you were anything like me, that first taste was probably a cheap piersporter or, even worse, a bottle of Iceberg, but your first glass is always special and perhaps Christmas is the season to rekindle an old romance.

Germany will always be Riesling’s spiritual home but if complicated labels and words that look like they’ve been lifted from Game Of Thrones don’t float your boat, there are plenty of crackers from the New World these days so here’s a quick look at what to expect.

Germany is still the place to go if you want to explore the full plethora of styles from bone dry to don’t-tell-your-dentist, but personally, I don’t stray too far from the Kabinetts of the Mosel and Rheingau. I love the medium style and waxy mouth-filling apple flavours with their wonderful ability to be all things to all men. Served chilled to the bone, these wines make cracking aperitifs but they are equally at home paired with fish or light meats such as pork.

I tend to find California and South America produce a similar waxy style wine but the palate lacks some of the complexity of their Germanic cousins while South Africa should stick to Chenin or Chardonnay until they can make a Riesling that doesn’t smell like a paraffin lamp.

If tropical fruit is your thing then the Rieslings of Australia and New Zealand are definitely for you. The Antipodeans tend to put the word ‘dry’ in front of Riesling but don’t let that fool you into thinking they are anything like the bone-suckingly dry wines of Alsace.

So there you are – Riesling is the way to go if you fancy a taste of nostalgia this jolly season.

GERARD’S CHOICES

Robert Weil, Rheingau: Apples, mint and tangerine on the palate. Actually, it’s a bit like a fancy salad dressing with alcohol. Serve with shellfish or turkey (hint hint). Richardson’s of Whitehaven, £26.95.

Ch St Michelle, Columbia Riesling, USA: A crisp, dry style with apricots on the palate and a refreshing acidic finish. Perfect with shellfish. Shills of Cockermouth, £14.50.